Back to Delhi, Haridwar and Rishikesh

We left Vrindavan a few days ago, a bit sad to be leaving, but knowing it was a wonderful place to jump in... We took a cab to Delhi, which was just a tad more expensive then the bus, but infinitely more comfortable. My previous comments about the driving held true, as expected; another thing to realize is that the lane markers on the streets are just for fun... or to give people some work to do - not a single person, car, bike, motorcycle, rickshaw or truck gives a shite and these including the supposed double yellow. I have witnessed myself in more than a few games of chicken wtih large trucks only to close my eyes at the point where someone drives off the berm (sp?) of the road. Saddly, Larry's influence really is everwhere.

By the time we made it through the rush hour traffic getting into delhi, my lungs were thoroughly coated with smog particulates. (pop, I think I have the black lung...) A quick night in Delhi (pahargang) and then off to Haridwar. This is a change of plans and dave and I decided that a 14 hour overnight bus trip on a 20 year old school bus into the mountains on sketchy roads was not in our best interest. So, off to haridwar we go...

The ride from Delhi to Haridwar was pretty good (comfortable bus) but long (it was supposed to take 4 hours, but it took 8. note to self: never take a bus from Delhi to Haridwar during the sugar cane harvest). Traveling in this country is truly exhausting, if not the dust and pollution than the harrowing rides on lawless streets; and if not that, than the general overwhelm of being in a country to utterly different from your own. Dave is making this trip a real adventure and learning for me. He has great background and history of many Hindu traditions, the dieties and their incranations, and many ceremonies.



In Haridwar we stayed at the Hotel Teerth, right on the Ganges and had a balcony overlooking the river, with a large swath of people selling all sorts of articles from mala beads to plastic containers to be able to take water from the Ganges back home with you. (kind of like visiting Lake Erie). Haridwar is a big tourist destination as it's considered a very holy city. Many people make the pillgrimage here to bathe in the Ganga and the majority of people I have seen here are Indian tourists.

One nightly ritual here in Hardiwar is Arti on the Ganga. A truly memorable experience; a very moving expression of sites of sounds and of smells. The ceremony involves placing a banana or tobacco leaf boat filled with flowers and and a candle on the river and saying prayers/blessings. There is a great deal of chanting, and music during the ceremony and it takes place every night. It was a great experience of the beauty and significane of the daily rituals associated with hinduism. Again, dave and I were some of the only westerners there amongst thousands of Indians. I had a bindi of 4 colors placed on my forehead during the ceremonies and then by little girl giving them for 10 rupees.

We stayed in Haridwar a few more days duing which we took a skyway up into the mountains to a temple. Otherwise we've done a lot of wondering. I'm getting used to the stares, as much as you can. Seeing the many handicaped/crippled people here is overwhelming - from lepers to men covered in boils to numerous children, men and women missing limbs. At one point is was all I could do to hold it together till I got to the hotel room. Yet another reminder to be here now. Every day here is a new experience of sinking into this world.

So, now we're now in Rishikesh, the self proclaimed world center for yoga. We took an 8 person Rickshaw the 30 km here yesterday. The town is beautiful, snuggled amongst the mountains along the Ganges. The river is flowing very quickly here with lots of rocks and boulders. There are also plenty of places to play in the river, sit and listen, etc..

I had a wonderful day today... got a haircut and beard trim/shave and head and face massage... all for a total of $2. then I got some antibiotics for my ear (75 cents), then I met Dr.Demani... a nice 70 year old man who specializes in the healing arts through gems and crystals.. he and I talked for 3 plus hour, had chai.. he talked about the many paths to enlightenment.. he looked at me for the first 30 seconds and said "you do a lot of hatha yoga, as I can see your body constitution is very balanced.. but you're not enlightended."

Dr. Demani:



Soo... okay... I never really thought as to whether or not I am enlightened... I never thought of it in such binary terms, as in you are or you aren't.. i've always seen it as a process. (god bless the beginner mind). Either way, it was a good lead into your long conversations... discussing the trumukti, hindu phiosophy, non-dualism, krishna versus shiva, the nature of a sadhu, scripture, mantra, gurus, etc. I really enjoyed it, though I could only understand about every second word..but somehow I knew that what I was picking up was what I was supposed to pick up. He lives in a tiny room right off a dirt path in Laxman Juhl (the area of Rishikesh where dave and I are staying). He is a beautiful man living a simple life with incredible knowledge, experience and wisdom; a joy to speak with.

I plan on being here at least a few more days. This is a very peaceful town and I plan on exploring more ashrams over the next few days. From here we're gonig to head up to Dharmasala. One thing to note... it's cold in this town at night ... Dave and I each have multiple blankets and a space heater at night (though we're too scard to keep it on all night... let's just say it wouldn't pass US safetey inspections...) The days are warm, though not hot (which is a good thing, because as we know, ebie don't do hot weather)...





more to come... btw, your postings are hilarious.. keep 'em comnig.